Orchid mantises (Hymenopus coronatus) are 1-3” long, diurnal, carnivorous invertebrates found throughout southeast Asia. They occupy warm, humid habitats, often in proximity to pink and white flowers, although sometimes on trees or shrubs.
The orchid mantis has a particularly unique appearance designed for maximum camouflage. Because they’re designed to blend in with flowers, that makes them particularly striking. Their body has the coloring and shape of flower petals, with females being white and pink and males being yellow and brown. Males are significantly smaller than females.
The orchid mantis is an intermediate-level pet mantis. Total lifespan for this species is 5-9 months, with females living longer, particularly at lower temperatures.
Minimum terrarium size for orchid mantises
The widely-accepted minimum formula for housing praying mantises is:
- Length = 2x mantis length
- Width = 2x mantis length
- Height = 3x mantis length
Height is particularly important, as mantises need vertical space in order to molt (shed their exoskeleton) and grow properly.
Using the above formula, the enclosure for an adult-sized orchid mantis varies according to sex. Juvenile and adult male orchid mantises can be housed in a 32oz deli cup with a ventilated top. Subadult and older females should be housed in a 6”L x 6”W x 9”H enclosure made of glass, plastic, or mesh. Larger is preferable both adults of either sex.
Multiple orchid mantises should not be housed together.
Do orchid mantises need special lighting?
If your mantis’ enclosure is placed in a room that receives ~12 hours/day of bright natural or artificial light, then additional lighting equipment is unnecessary. However, if your mantis is being kept in a dark room or you wish to put live plants in the enclosure, then you will need additional lighting equipment such as a small white fluorescent or LED grow light around 6500K.
Do not put mantis enclosures near windows, as the sunlight can cause the terrarium to overheat!
Best temperature for orchid mantises
If you have an orchid mantis in a 32oz deli cup or Kritter Keeper, then it’s best to keep them at an ambient temperature around 78-82°F. A small heat mat stuck to the side and connected to a thermostat can be helpful for accomplishing this.
If you are keeping an orchid mantis in an adult-sized glass or mesh enclosure, it’s best practice to provide a temperature gradient via heat lamp that will allow it to choose the temperature it wants to be at. The Zoo Med Nano Dome Lamp Fixture and 25w Zoo Med Nano Basking Spot bulb is a good combination to start with. Average air temperature should be between 77-85°F, and basking temperature around 90°F, which you can monitor with a digital thermometer placed in the middle of the enclosure.
Mantises tend to hang upside-down from the top of their enclosure, so if you put the lamp directly on top of the mesh, there’s a good chance that your pet will get burned! Instead, suspend the lamp from a lamp stand.
The heat lamp should be turned off at night. Nighttime temps should be no lower than 70°F.
Best humidity levels for orchid mantises
Providing the right amount of humidity is very important for making sure that your praying mantis is able to molt properly and stays generally healthy. Too high and too low will both cause problems. For the orchid mantis, their comfort zone is between 60-80% on average.
Lightly mist your mantis’ enclosure twice per day with a spray bottle to both increase the humidity and provide drinking water. Allow the enclosure to dry out before misting again. Mesh enclosures will need misting more often than glass or plastic ones.
Keep track of the humidity in your mantis’ enclosure with a digital hygrometer.
Best substrate for orchid mantises
Your orchid mantis terrarium should have at least 1-2” of substrate on the bottom to help maintain the humidity. Here are some moisture-friendly materials you can use:
- Zoo Med Creatures Eco Soil
- Zoo Med Creature Soil
- Zoo Med ReptiBark
- Eco Earth Plantation Soil
- Exo Terra Forest Bark
This substrate will need to be replaced weekly and the enclosure thoroughly rinsed out with hot water to maintain good hygiene.
Alternatively, you can use a bioactive-ready soil substrate with springtails, isopods, beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae fungi, and live plants to create a bioactive setup. This can be a little complicated to balance, and requires additional research to create. However, the big benefit with bioactive is that it helps keep the enclosure clean by naturally breaking down waste.
How to decorate an orchid mantis terrarium
In order to reduce stress, prolong your mantis’ lifespan, and encourage natural behaviors, your orchid mantis needs both objects to climb and hide behind in its enclosure. Here are some ideas of things you can use:
- thin vines
- live plants
- artificial foliage
Use hot glue to attach climbing objects to the sides and bottom of the enclosure at different angles for variety. Artificial flowers make especially good decor for this species because it emphasizes their natural beauty!
However you arrange your enclosure, make sure to leave enough open space at the top for twice your mantis’ height to use during molting.
What to feed to an orchid mantis
Praying mantises are carnivores, which means that they eat other insects and small animals in order to get the nutrition that they need. Offer prey every other day, as much as your mantis will eat in one session. Although you can let your mantis hunt its prey by simply tossing the bugs into the enclosure, it’s best to offer food via tweezers so you know for sure that your pet is eating.
Feeders should be live and no more than 1/2 your mantis’ length. Offer a variety of different bugs so your mantis can benefit from more balanced nutrition. Here are some options:
- D. melanogaster fruit flies
- D. hydei fruit flies
- Black soldier flies
- Blue/green bottle flies
- Red runners
- Wax moths
Orchid mantises are particularly fond of flying insects and feeders that like to climb up to their level. Due to disease-related concerns, it’s best to avoid feeding crickets to your praying mantis.
Before offering prey to your mantis, make sure the prey has been well fed and hydrated for at least the last 24 hours. This helps maximize your mantis’ lifespan by making sure it’s getting quality nutrition from each of its meals. Here are some good formulas for gutloading feeder insects:
- Dubia Diet
- Repashy Bug Burger
- Repashy Superfly
- Repashy Superhorn
It’s also good practice to offer bee pollen powder or some honey mixed with bee pollen at least once a week to your mantis. Simply dust the feeder insects in bee pollen powder, or offer a dab of honey/pollen mixture on a chopstick for your mantis to enjoy.
How to handle your orchid mantis
As a general rule, invertebrates are “look-but-don’t-touch” pets: fun to watch, but not to be handled regularly. This holds true for the orchid mantis. Instead, enjoy trying to find its camouflaged form among the décor of its enclosure!
Never handle or otherwise disturb your mantis within ~3 days after a molt, as they’re very soft after molting, and get injured easily during this time. Note that molting (shedding) occurs every 2-3 weeks for juveniles and 3-4 weeks for subadults, and it’s normal for mantises to refuse food for 1-2 days before a molt.
*This care sheet contains only very basic information. Although it’s a good introduction, please further your research with high-quality sources. The more you know, the better you will be able to care for your pet!
"Orchid Mantis (Hymenopus coronatus)" by Frupus is licensed under CC BY-NC 2.0