How to Set Up a Boa Constrictor Terrarium

How to Set Up a Boa Constrictor Terrarium

If you’re planning on getting a pet boa constrictor, then the first thing you need to do is set up an appropriate terrarium for it to live in. Boa constrictors aren’t like other types of pets that you may be more familiar with, such as dogs or cats. They can’t simply live free-range with you in your home; instead, they need a terrarium that has the right equipment in the right arrangement to create a usable environment that replicates the conditions of their native habitat.

If you haven’t read our Boa Constrictor Care Sheet yet, read that first! Once you have a basic understanding of what your new pet needs from its habitat, you’re ready to start setting up a boa constrictor terrarium.

It may seem expensive to buy all of these supplies for “just a snake,” but they are essential to your pet’s survival. Without an appropriate terrarium to live in, your new pet is likely to get sick and die. Here’s our step-by-step guide to successfully setting up a boa constrictor terrarium so you and your beloved pet can enjoy many years together!

Step 1: Choose the Right Terrarium

Boa constrictors are semi-arboreal and capable of growing to 5-12’ long depending on subspecies/locality. Boa imperator is generally smaller and Boa constrictor is generally larger.  and need a terrarium that is appropriate for that size of snake. 

Due to the variation in size between different types of boa constrictor, it’s important to know exactly what species (or subspecies) of boa you have so you can predict its adult length and choose an appropriately-sized enclosure accordingly. As a general rule, the absolute minimum enclosure size for a boa constrictor will fit these requirements:

  • Length and width are equal to or greater than the snake’s expected adult length
  • Height is equal to or greater than half the snake’s expected adult length

Most boa constrictors can be housed in a 4'L x 2'W x 2'H enclosure for their first 2-3 years of life, depending on growth rate. Of course, larger is always better! 

This terrarium can be made from wood or PVC, but it should be front-opening and have plenty of ventilation for healthy airflow, whether in the form of a mesh top or side vents. We prefer enclosures with a mesh top design, as they make it much easier to safely install heat and UVB lamps.

If your terrarium doesn’t have opaque sides, you will need to cover them with something to help your boa constrictor be comfortable in its environment. This can be as simple as construction paper or as elaborate as a 3D textured background.

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Step 2: Arrange Your Lighting and Heating Equipment

To heat and light your boa constrictor’s terrarium appropriately, you will need the following equipment:

  • Heat lamps (at least 2)
  • UVB lamp
  • Hide box/cave
  • Heat mat
  • On/off thermostat

Both heat lamps should be placed on the right or left side of the terrarium, close together. The UVB lamp should be placed on the same side so it fully overlaps with the beams from the heat lamps.

Boa constrictors are nocturnal, which means they are most active at night. This also means that it’s best practice to provide a warm hide for them to use when they want to be warm but don’t feel like basking in the open. Simply place a hide directly underneath the heat lamps, and if the heat lamps don’t get it to 86-88°F, even though the basking temperature is within range, add a heat mat connected to a thermostat under the hide, hidden under a 1-2” layer of substrate. To be effective, the thermostat probe must be placed inside the warm hide.

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Step 3: Start Minimalist

With any new pet reptile, it is best practice to quarantine them for 3-6 months after bringing them home, especially if you have other pet reptiles. When you first set up your boa constrictor terrarium, it’s best to start simple so you can quarantine them efficiently.

Here’s what you need at minimum:

  • blue shop towels for substrate
  • sphagnum moss
  • hide box or cave (at least 2)
  • large water dish
  • pressure sprayer
  • artificial foliage
  • climbing branch
  • digital thermometer/hygrometer device (x2)

Choose a climbing branch sturdy enough to support the boa’s body, but it shouldn’t be so tall that it brings the snake dangerously close to the UVB lamp — UVB wavelength intensity increases the closer the snake gets to the lamp. If at all possible, buy or borrow a Solarmeter 6.5 to check that the maximum UVI is no higher than 3.0. Generally speaking, this means that the snake should not be able to get closer than 9” under the bulb if the lamp is mounted over mesh.

Place the thermometer probes so one is in the warm hide and one is on the cool side of the terrarium. Your temperature gradient should look like this: 

  • Warm hide temperature — 86-90°F 
  • Cool hide temperature — 75-80°F
  • Nighttime — 68-75°F 

If temperatures are too high, use a plug-in lamp dimmer, thermostat, or a lower bulb wattage. If the temperatures are too low, you will need higher-wattage bulbs.

For humidity, you will need an average of 55-75%, with higher in the cool (humid) hide. To create a humid hide, place a hide box on the cool side of the enclosure, lined with moistened sphagnum moss. Increase humidity by misting the enclosure with water 1-2x daily.

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Step 4: Quarantine for at Least 3 Months

The purpose of using a minimalist setup for quarantine is to make it easy to keep clean. During this time, monitor your boa for signs of parasites or illness, and get it tested for IBD. 

Substrate should be changed out whenever it gets soiled, and the enclosure and all accessories should be disinfected at least 1x/month. Use a bleach solution (¾ cup bleach per gallon of water) or veterinary-grade disinfectants like F10SC and Clean Break.

Step 5: Add Substrate

Once quarantine is over, you can work on giving your boa constrictor’s terrarium a fully-enriched, long-term layout. It won’t need to be cleaned quite as often — only once every 3-6 months, depending on how good you are about spot-cleaning.

The first step of setting up a long-term terrarium design is adding a naturalistic substrate. For a boa constrictor, it’s best to use something that resembles tropical soil, such as coconut fiber or a reptile soil mix. You will need at least 4” of substrate to help maintain humidity, so for a 4’x2’ terrarium, count on at least 80 quarts or 2.7 cubic feet of substrate.

If your terrarium has different dimensions, you can estimate the amount of substrate you’ll need by multiplying the length x width to get the number of cubic inches of substrate it will take for 1” deep of substrate. Then multiply that number by the desired depth of substrate, then convert the resulting number to quarts or cubic feet.

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Step 6: Add Environmental Enrichment

Environmental enrichment is the process of strategically adding items to your snake’s terrarium that make it more functional for the occupant. Now it’s time to get creative! The best way to get inspiration for your terrarium’s appearance is by looking at pictures of boa constrictor habitat on sites like iNaturalist and Flickr.

Place the water bowl, hides, and main climbing branch first, and build around those. Make sure the water bowl is accessible and easy to remove, but minimize open space, as boa constrictors are most comfortable when they have plenty of climbing and hiding opportunities available.


Magnetic ledges offer great lookout points for boa constrictors to survey their surroundings, and encourage climbing. Hammocks also offer a similar function.


Wood makes a great material for your boa to climb on or hide under, encouraging good muscle tone and/or helping reinforce their sense of security. Mopani wood, cork bark, and manzanita wood are less prone to mold in humid conditions and tend to work best. Whichever you choose, make sure the branches are large and stable enough to support your snake’s size and weight.


Whether real or fake, plants perform the very important role of providing visual obstruction, and also do a lot to make a terrarium more attractive. Live plants help with maintaining humidity, but artificial plants are much more durable.

Live plants should be kept in pots to help keep the water close to the roots, unless the enclosure is bioactive (which this article is not covering). Use tropical plants tolerant of low light conditions, sturdy enough to withstand occasional trampling, and moderate to high amounts of water. They should also be nontoxic if accidentally ingested. Some suitable options include:

  • Callisia
  • Dracaena
  • Ficus
  • Heuchera
  • Hosta
  • Peperomia
  • Philodendron
  • Pilea
  • Pothos
  • Sansevieria
  • Wandering Jew

For more safe plant ideas, visit The Tortoise Table


Even after you’ve set up your boa constrictor’s long-term terrarium arrangement, it’s okay to rearrange it every so often as you come to understand boa constrictor husbandry better. It also helps keep your pet’s environment “fresh” and stimulates them to explore and exercise!

"Photo 175935065" by Steve Bentsen is licensed under CC BY-NC 4.0